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Installing lights.


Sascha

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My platform lights from China arrived. They have these extra things (don't know how you call them). I guess I have to solder them to the wire? Where exactly do they belong ? The plus or minus wire? 4a8415c18fa5a303582c1d8dbe6b3419.jpg

 

 

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The current limiting resistors could be placed on any of the wires (both power and ground), just connect them serially with the lights. You should also add some protection diodes on the other wire, so a reversed polarity voltage won't kill the leds. (the diodes should point towards the ground direction with their paint rings, the resistors above can be installed any way)

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These are resistors.

 

A resistor is a basic electrical component wich partially disspiates electricity into heat, they work like a fix transformator.

 

Probably they are in the box ecause using the direct transformator output (i don't know wich are you using) would burn the lights.

 

These are 1000Ω resistors (Ω "Ohm" is the mesauring unit for electrical resistance). 

 

They should be connected as following: 

 

DC transformer ( + )---------------------------(Resistor)-----------------------(Lamp)---------------------------( - )DC Transformer

 

If you give me more data (such as Transformator Output, how many lights you need...) ill' make an electrical circuit scheme.

 

WARNING:

As i said earlier resistors partially dissipate electricity into heat, wich means they can get very hot, sometimes even more than 50 degerees celsius (in some cases if the voltage is too high they may take fire and burn). So where you place them, be careful not to put them too near to something that could melt or burn. (thick wood or plastic is not a problem, absoloutely no paper).

Edited by DavideTreni
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I'm using a AC/DC Adapter

Input: 100-240VAC

50/60Hz

OUTPUT:12V  2A

This is what the Ebay seller has on info. I want to add 4 lights to my station platform. 

 Brand New: SUNSHINE MODEL.

  Type: Scale model lampposts/lights.

  Material: Stainless Steel and Plastic.

  Scale & Height: 1:160---40mm or 1.6inch.Height error 3%.

  Wire:The red wire is connected with the anode of the LED,and the black wire is connected with the cathode of the LED.

  Post color: Black.

  Lighted by LED.

  Emitting color: Warm White. 

  Operating Voltage1: 3V(without resistor) ,AC or DC Compatible.

  Operating Voltage2: 12V-18V(must connect a resistor in series) ,AC or DC Compatible.

  Operating Current: 20mA. 

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Sascha,

 

Those resistors will work fine with your lamps. They will run them a bit below max output on light, but that probably will be good as at full brightness LEDs can be mini Suns and at scale look too bright (many layouts get over lit like this).

 

If you put the resistors in an accessible place you could later replace them with a resistor (to drop the current to the max of the LED) and then a little variable resistor to drop it to the level you want visually. These are cheap on ebay, like 10 cents each.

 

You could put 2 or 3 LEDs in series with a resistor but this can be an issue at times if the LEDs are not exactly the same (these probably are, but just safer). To be safe wiring each with its own resistor to the 12v can be safer and if you add in a variable resistor you can set each individually if you need.

 

To reduce the heat and current drop needed you could also just use a 5v cellphone/USB charger wall wart. You probably have a bunch laying around. You then need a lower value resistor to drop the 5v down to 3-4v for the LED. With the 12v supply you are just brining off the extra current (8-9v difference) as heat.

 

I can show you the resistor and variable resistor (called pots) you can use for either the 5 or 12v power supplies.

 

Cheers

 

Jeff

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That good news Jeff. I'll install them like that then. Since they are on the open ends at the platforms,it's not to bad if they are not as bright. Thanks for all the help guys.

 

 

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Sascha,

 

Those resistors will work fine with your lamps. They will run them a bit below max output on light, but that probably will be good as at full brightness LEDs can be mini Suns and at scale look too bright (many layouts get over lit like this).

 

If you put the resistors in an accessible place you could later replace them with a resistor (to drop the current to the max of the LED) and then a little variable resistor to drop it to the level you want visually. These are cheap on ebay, like 10 cents each.

 

You could put 2 or 3 LEDs in series with a resistor but this can be an issue at times if the LEDs are not exactly the same (these probably are, but just safer). To be safe wiring each with its own resistor to the 12v can be safer and if you add in a variable resistor you can set each individually if you need.

 

To reduce the heat and current drop needed you could also just use a 5v cellphone/USB charger wall wart. You probably have a bunch laying around. You then need a lower value resistor to drop the 5v down to 3-4v for the LED. With the 12v supply you are just brining off the extra current (8-9v difference) as heat.

 

I can show you the resistor and variable resistor (called pots) you can use for either the 5 or 12v power supplies.

 

Cheers

 

Jeff

f9ba9cee378e4e4d4643c707a33035cf.jpg

Is that right? Cause it's not working.

 

 

 

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Sasha,

 

Hmm yes that's right! Have you tried reversing the LED leads? They have a polarity. I bet that's it.

 

Jeff

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Here is something that will help. I suggested it before lol.

 

The resistor value and applied voltage need to match if not there may not be enough voltage to drive the LED or too much that will blow it instantly.

 

Brown, Black, Orange band resistor is 10k ohms. or 1000 ohms if the third band is red its hard to tell. It seems to be a lot of resistance unless you are using 18v. . 

 

Using the "wheel" 12v 20mA should be in the 470 range.

 

Inobu

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7 to 15 mA current should be good and white leds at 12V 1000 ohms should glow fine as 20mA is the absolute maximum rating and should be avoided. But reverse polarity or AC power actually destroys the leds, so imho adding a serial protection diode is always a good idea.

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da7cf9babdaa3c996df10164c53d632a.jpg

Got it working. I think the LED was faulty, so I took a new one. I'm absolutely new to this, so I appreciate y'alls help.

 

 

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Sasha,

 

Great work! that was going to be my second suggestion! I take it reversing the polarity did not work. May have had a wire yanked and the LED solder busted or jsut broken from the get go when soldered up.

 

These are quite handy to test things out quickly!

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Sell10pcs-Double-ended-Test-Leads-Alligator-Crocodile-Roach-Clip-Jumper-Wire-/281784181340?hash=item419ba5625c:g:huUAAOSwbqpTvlV3

 

Here are the little variable resistors that you can add in as well to dim them to what you want

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DZ912-2K-OHM-Trimpot-Trimmer-Potentiometer-Pot-Variable-Resistor-RM065-202-x10-/391495252425?hash=item5b26ef79c9:g:y9sAAOSwOVpXc0Ao

 

Cheers,

 

Jeff

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Sasha,

 

Great work! that was going to be my second suggestion! I take it reversing the polarity did not work. May have had a wire yanked and the LED solder busted or jsut broken from the get go when soldered up.

 

These are quite handy to test things out quickly!

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Sell10pcs-Double-ended-Test-Leads-Alligator-Crocodile-Roach-Clip-Jumper-Wire-/281784181340?hash=item419ba5625c:g:huUAAOSwbqpTvlV3

 

Here are the little variable resistors that you can add in as well to dim them to what you want

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DZ912-2K-OHM-Trimpot-Trimmer-Potentiometer-Pot-Variable-Resistor-RM065-202-x10-/391495252425?hash=item5b26ef79c9:g:y9sAAOSwOVpXc0Ao

 

Cheers,

 

Jeff

Thank you. The clips will definitely come in handy. I have the resistors, since you told me to buy them when you gave me info about the soldering iron. Is there a picture on how to connect them?

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sasha,

 

those little pots have three leg contacts on them, two on one end and a single on the other. basically you wire it in just like the resistor to the single leg and one of the two other legs on the other side. choosing which leg you wire just changes the direction of action (ie low to high resistance) of the knob. some like them to get higher resistance (ie led get darker) when you turn it clockwise others like it to get brighter (lower resistance) when you turn it clockwise, so its your choice. 

 

you just wire them in series with one of the led leads just like the resistor. it can be on the resistor side or the other, doesnt matter.

 

 

 

you can use the alligator clips to do a mock up to see how makes most sense to you and then just standardize that way!

 

you can also use very fine wire for powering these leds individually like this, like 30g wire. its the cheapest wire you can buy at like $6 for 1000' of the stuff. its nice and pliable and also pretinned so it solders very easily.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-0-25mm-Wire-Wrapping-Wire-30AWG-Cable-305m-10-Colors-/131605891841?var=&hash=item1ea4528b01:m:mI1DcUWLI7Gl-ev7nPILg2Q

 

you can also just run all the led wires back to a convenient place to put the resistor and pot. if you have a number to power up you can just wire the pots and resistors onto a little bit of bread board and then wire your power to the board.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5x7CM-10PCS-Prototype-Paper-PCB-Experiment-Matrix-Circuit-Board-KG-/291885170927?var=&hash=item43f5b640ef:m:mU9zBc2xFOQxhqjHb6PztAA

 

these little guys are great to use as terminals to screw the led leads into and power feeds as well

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-KF301-2P-5-08mm-2-Pin-Connect-Terminal-Screw-Terminal-Connector-GM-/262136738676?hash=item3d08913374:g:xB4AAOSwAKxWXmYR

 

ill try to get some time this week to wire up an example of this for you. they are simple to make and make life easy to wire up leds and control them.

 

jeff

post-24-0-24056500-1476580512_thumb.jpg

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