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NXCALE

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Wahaha I have that one, and it is my favourite magazine! It has a catalogue of bus collections by Tomytec from 1 to 18, including the secret variant! How do you get hold of it by the way, since it has been long sold out?

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Oh wow... I am green with envy... that controller rocks! It's the must have for any train fan! Wish there was one available that wouldn't cost an arm or a leg...

 

Here's a good idea for that void there where the watch sits:

 

http://www.amiami.com/top/detail/detail?gcode=GOODS-00113113&page=top%2Fsearch%2Flist%3Fs_cate2%3D9604%24s_preorderitem%3D1%24pagemax%3D40%24getcnt%3D0%24pagecnt%3D3

 

GOODS-00113113.jpg

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Haha yes I saw this guy before and it always occur to me that you can have as much fun as you like with your layout!  :)

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Nice job!  Relay logic really is a basic form of programming, and I believe how many full size railroads controlled their signaling systems.  In the maritime industry we still use relay logic to control a lot of machinery because its so robust and easy to troubleshoot and repair.

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Relay interlockings were the earliest non fully mechanical systems. Actually all basic digital gates have relay equivalents and most early computers (even stored program ones) were built from relays. A slightly more advanced form is diode+relay logic. (then discrete transistor to transistor logic and so on...)

 

For railway usage, i would suggest to look for bistable dpdt relays as besides morse relays, they are the most versatile components for digital logic. If they are too expensive, it's possible to make an equivalent but self reset on power on circuit from two morse relays.

 

ps: The official irl way for automatic block signalling is to take the occupancy signal and emit an active signal on a confirmed free block, then take the active signals in pairs to each signal (from the next and next-next blocks) and decode these signals with morse relays, so any signal or relay loss results in a more restrictive aspect.

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For train models, I think the circuits could be simplified/modified to save relays and energy consumption.

Actually it's easier to do it this way. You have a block detector that gets signal when the block is active. If you add a simple amplifier (like an optocoupler), then you get an inverted (low active) signal. Take two of these signals (next and next next block) and you can calculate the signal form with morse relays (if next is low: red, if next is high but nextnext is low: yellow, both are high: green, 4 color signals with 3 blocks are similar)

 

If you don't have block detectors, but use threadle sensors (like the Tomix sensors) then the optocoupler will give you a low active signal on contact. This could be used to activate the set and clear inputs of a two morse relay holding circuit. (with one set as a self holding relay and one as a breaker in the self holding loop).  You'll need only one sensor per block, since the set and clear signals of different blocks could share sensors if you add a diode pointing towards the sensor to each SR relay block input. This is harder to get right on bidirectional track, but Tomix sensors are direction sensitive in DC, so it's possible.

 

Low active relay control means the control legs go to ground and the common goes up to supply. This allows simple low active diode logic to be used and is also more compatible with low active digital driver circuits, like an uln2003a or a Tomix tcs detector.

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:dontknow:

 

Nice, thanks  for the info. I will be checking some of those.

 

Watching the video below, I think is my fate ending up like that person:

 

 

Power Up!

lol,

 

That guy is in his own little train world and has no intentions of leaving or nor coming back here.

 

Inobu

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So the idea is that as long as one sensor detects in a given block, you have an occupied block. This is great, but requires a ton of detectors wired in parallel compared to entry/exit sensors at each block boundary. The good side is that this is train length independent and could be easily built for single track, bidirectional running.

 

ps: imho you should check with camera flashes, direct sunlight and halogen bulbs if any of these could trigger the sensors without a train

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