Kato Cord Extensions Question

[Indy500Lee]

I have a question about Kato wire extensions, I am building my layout with multi stations and having my switch stations switch at the same time on both sides of the station. I am using a Kato 24-827 (BC), I was wondering which extension wire to use A Kato 24-825(DC) or the 24-826(?), this wire will plug into my switch wire plugs which are black and red wire, the 825(DC) is white and blue and the 826(?) is red and white, I just want to make sure before I Buy, I need 19 of them.  One more thing to help this is a Kato Unitack Layout.

 

Thanks

 

Lee

[katoftw]

Both do the same job, just different colours. Red/black for points and white/blue for power. But they are interchangible.

[inobu]

On this old layout I used the extensions for convenience but later found it better to just hard wire it in. It is cheaper to cut the ends and add your own wire.

I uses 32 pair wire here and spliced the connector ends onto the wire. Next I connected them into the switch boxes.

 

 

 

 

Inobu

[Krackel Hopper]

Just repeating what everyone else already said.

 

The Kato 24-285 & 24-286 are the exact same wires and plugs, just different colors to help with cord management.

 

If you need 19 of those you're looking at $35 + shipping.  If you take inobu's advice, the same 55ft of wire will cost you about $6.

 

If it were me, I would cut the turnout wire in half, then splice in whatever extra wire length was required.  That'd be two connectors per cut wire.  One for each plug side.  They make two wire splice connectors for around $0.60 a piece.. guessing 4 turnouts at each end.. 8 turnouts total.. two connectors per turnout (16) at $0.60 a piece.. call it $10 in connectors.. could probably get connectors for even cheaper than that..

 

So.. about $16 or $35.. Kato wires will certainly be the easiest way but will cost twice as much.  Splicing your own will take a little extra work and can result in better wire management.

 

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/power-wires/24-awg-two-conductor-power-wire/1036/2491/

[tossedman]

You can also buy the connectors separately. Do a google search for Mini Tamiya Connectors for a place near you. You'd need male and female connectors and a crimping tool.

 

Cheers eh,

 

Todd

Edited October 28, 2015 by tossedman

[katoftw]

Indeed good advice.  I just looked on ebay.  $1AUD for 100cm of wire and $1AUD for each pair of connectors.  Thank you.

Edited October 28, 2015 by katoftw

[Welshbloke]

Ahh, I'd been wondering if they were available separately for ages!

 

Will bookmark that in case I ever build a permanent layout. I'd probably do something like running custom-length cables stapled to the underside of the board, as that way if I ever needed to replace a set of points I could just unplug them rather than needing to resolder anything.

[kvp]

A not too elegant, but simple way is to use terminal strips. You can use half of the cable from the turnout to reach the nearest strip and do the same to the wiring panel near the control switches. They are cheap, easy to get and allow any kind of wire and routing to be used. Also the turnout wires are easier to get under the table without a plug on the end. Personally, most of the time i just twist and tin the bare wire ends to make them easy to handle, then connect them to terminal strips, which can also be used as distributors with more than one wire end in the same slot. For mounting them, they can be glued, nailed by the holes between the connectors or even screwed to almost anything and can be cut to the required length. Also anything (circuits, cables, etc.) that needs to be repaired can be removed with a screwdriver.

[cteno4]

These are very handy for under the layout to hold wires. Nice as you can remove wires easily.

 

Jeff

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/30PC-Car-Drop-Adhesive-Clamp-Wire-Cord-Clip-Cable-Holder-Tie-Clips-Organizer-/361311811493?hash=item541fdcb7a5:g:PAcAAOSweW5VbrP2

[Spaceman Spiff]

As mentioned before, just hard wired my extensions. A lot cheaper way of doing it.

 

Spiff

[inobu]

I guess I'll throw this out there.

 

I took the route that kpv stated with the terminal blocks. I bought a bunch of them which turned out to be expensive as well. When I was looking for more terminal blocks at this electronics

store they let be go in the back and I found these. When I saw these the light went on.

 

The only thing you have to do is screw them onto the board and group them however you want. They are $.12 a piece. Now I just hang the wire and cut my own block/base out of PCV and screw these in. instant terminal block where ever you can drill.

 

Crimp the wire and done.

 

On my last install I used these on the power bus along with the terminal jumper above.

Edited October 29, 2015 by inobu

[kvp]

You have to crimp those. The european style plastic blocks are around 1 usd for 12 pieces and they come with 24 screws, 12 joiner tubes in a cuttable plastic isolating case. Less than 0.1 for a connection and they are good for 3-30 A /300V, depending on the size. (i mostly use the 5 and 10A types)

 

PS: For high voltage you should to tape over the screw access holes if the block is in an easily accessible place, otherwise the isolation of the housing is good enough to prevent accidental contacts, even for free hanging connections.

[Welshbloke]

I've used a few of those piggyback spade connectors on my car, brilliant bits of kit although you need to be aware of current draw.

 

Weirdly the best wire strippers I've found (these) aren't the best crimp tool, despite having notches on them for crimping. I suppose they might be if you had stronger hands, but I find the extra leverage of this type is essential for a good solid crimp.

[Indy500Lee]

Thanks guys for the help, if some of you cound show pictures how you hard wired your systems, I would appreciate that.

 

Thanks again

 

Lee

Edited October 29, 2015 by Indy500Lee

[inobu]

You have to crimp those. The european style plastic blocks are around 1 usd for 12 pieces and they come with 24 screws, 12 joiner tubes in a cuttable plastic isolating case. Less than 0.1 for a connection and they are good for 3-30 A /300V, depending on the size. (i mostly use the 5 and 10A types)

 

PS: For high voltage you should to tape over the screw access holes if the block is in an easily accessible place, otherwise the isolation of the housing is good enough to prevent accidental contacts, even for free hanging connections.

lol...I despise those connectors. Although they work I just don't like the way they look. That is why opted for the terminal blocks but they were too expensive. Using those Waytex I started making my own custom terminal block that help organize everything easier.

 

Inobu

[kvp]

What's wrong with the look of these:

It's about 1 usd for 12 connectors and you don't even have to tin the wire ends or solder anything and the isolation is taken care of.

[inobu]

It funny you say that..... I asked myself why and I had to look at them again for the answer........You can spend hours on them and it always looks like it is temporary. It look like one step above electrical tape to me.

 

lol,  maybe I have a sickness.

 

Inobu

 

 

example

 

verses

 

Edited October 29, 2015 by inobu

[cteno4]

Weirdly the best wire strippers I've found (these) aren't the best crimp tool, despite having notches on them for crimping. I suppose they might be if you had stronger hands, but I find the extra leverage of this type is essential for a good solid crimp.

I have the Irwin version of those (identical probably the same tooling) and they are great for stripping all wires a over about 24g, love them!

 

I had a wonderful ratcheting crimper that had great leverage/pressure for terminal connectors but left it somewhere and have not found its replacement since. It was super solid.

 

Jeff

[katoftw]

I like kvp's suggestion.  I have seem them used many times.  And I have even used them when building rally and race cars.  If they can handle 14.4 volts and 20 amps, then they can handle 12 volts a 2 amps without a problem. 

Edited October 30, 2015 by katoftw

[cteno4]

LOL, Wiring like this is so personal! I have done tons of wiring in exhibit projects with lighting, physical controls and lots of AV equipment and never found the magic bullet that solves all the problems and makes everyone happy! I've rarely found any two professionals I've worked with have the same opinions, likes and dislikes. In the end I fall on the most practical solution of just looking at the needs of each job and not applying the same set of techniques all the time.

 

In some situations it's important to be able to disconnect wires to move things or trouble shooting, but each have different locations where those connections should be. In others the routing of wiring is super important so having it all down to help troubleshoot that is important.

 

In the end I tend to not do one thing which is to ultra heavily bundle lots of wiring with cable zip ties. While things can be very tidy looking, it's caused me lots more pain in tracing cables later and also at times the tension caused when's bundle is eventually yanked by someone causing a connection issue even with well secured connections. I like the easily removable bundlers like clips, Velcro strips and such that are easy to pull if you need to pull out or trace one wire and replace them and allow a little give when things are tugged on. This leads to something not on the ultra clean looking side, but it's tidy enough to be out of the way, practical to avoid some issues and seems to be the least overall investment in time, energy and resources. But again wiring is a very personal thing!

 

It funny you say that..... I asked myself why and I had to look at them again for the answer........You can spend hours on them and it always looks like it is temporary. It look like one step above electrical tape to me.

 

lol,  maybe I have a sickness.

 

Inobu

 

[inobu]

No, I think it is a sickness

 

These are the terminal blocks for the switches. These are the ones I just wire wrapped but removed. I added double screws for the waytek.

There were a bunch of switches A-D

 

So no it is a sickness.

 

Inobu

 

 

[Indy500Lee]

Thank You Guys For All The Help

 

Lee