Baseboard.

[Sascha]

Hello again. I finally build a baseboard, and I have to say, I'm pretty happy with myself. For most of you its probably not a big deal, but it is the first thing I have build myself in 25 years and I usually suck at it (The last thing I build before that was my DJ desk, and way simpler).

Now my question. I used Birch as suggested in this forum, and would like to know if I have to paint it, and if yes with what kind of paint? The reason I asked is that I live in New Orleans with almost 100% humidity and am worried that the wood will get bubbly? or crack..A dehumidifier is no use because I have holes everywhere, since it is a very old house, I do run the air-condition pretty much 24/7 so I guess that helps a little.

Next question is about the tracks and trains.

Do I have to wipe the tracks down every day before I use the trains, and do I have to put the trains back in their case every day, or is it ok if I leave them on the track during the night?

Any help is as aways appreciated.

[katoftw]

In answer to your track and maintenence question.  It will depend on your situation.  I personally don't think you have to clean daily, or put your trains away.  But only you can be the judge of your situation.  Dust, humidity are the key factors to access.

[Bernard]

Sascha - Very nice start! The main board looks very sturdy and level......next I would add on the legs. Here is one suggestion and might answer your question about paint.....would you consider using insulation foam board? Here's a link to what it looks like:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Corning-FOAMULAR-250-2-in-x-48-in-x-8-ft-R-10-Scored-Squared-Edge-Insulation-Sheathing-52DD/202085962

 

 

I've used it on my layouts and I love it! It will dull the sound, it's easy to draw your layout template on and you can carve into it like rivers, lakes, etc.

I've attached two photos of how I used it on my layout.

Edited June 28, 2015 by Bernard

[katoftw]

Useless link for somebody not in Australia, but have a look at the applications:- http://www.bunnings.com.au/knauf-insulation-xps-1200-x-600-x-50mm-multi-use-foam-board-_p0811028

Edited June 29, 2015 by katoftw

[Sascha]

Sascha - Very nice start! The main board looks very sturdy and level......next I would add on the legs. 

Thank you. I am using 2 sawhorses right now since it makes it easier to move around. Legs would scratch the floor. The foam is a great idea. Thanks for the link.What type of glue did you use to glue it to the plate?

[Sascha]

Useless link for somebody not in Australia, but have a look at the applications:- http://www.bunnings.com.au/knauf-insulation-xps-1200-x-600-x-50mm-multi-use-foam-board-_p0811028

I do live in the US and not in Australia.Thanks for the link anyways!!!

Edited June 29, 2015 by Sascha

[railsquid]

Do I have to wipe the tracks down every day before I use the trains, and do I have to put the trains back in their case every day, or is it ok if I leave them on the track during the night?

 

I tend to rotate my trains, leaving them out for days at a time. They do tend to get a bit dusty so I make sure to give them a spray with compressed air before putting them away. Make sure they're not exposed to sunlight. Track needs cleaning regularly, but not necessarily daily; depends how much you use the layout. Train wheels need cleaning too, of course.

[Bernard]

Sascha - I used "Liquid Nails for Projects" an adhesive that will attach the foam to the wood baseboard. After you put the adhesive to the wood then you put the foam baseboard to the wood......then put weight on the foam and let it set over night.

Here is a link to the product and 2 photos on how I used it.

http://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Nails-Construction-Adhesive-Cartridge/dp/B000B61PNO

 

Liquid Nails made 2 types of adhesives one for "Projects" and one for "Foam"......I preferred the one for "Projects" it's stronger.

 

[velotrain]

A product American modelers have used for decades is called Homasote - known as Sound Board at Home Depot:

 

 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-440-1-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-R-1-2-Sound-Board-206136/202090212

 

 

It has far less depth, so the insulation foam is better is you plan to make major depressions in the surface.  

 

 

Traditionally modelers have used a jig-saw to cut the Homasote for where they need a roadbed, but there's no reason you couldn't use it for the entire surface.  Some guys will create spline roadbed from it, but that isn't needed for traditional Japanese-style layouts.  Note that there is a lot of dust if you do cut homasote, although I recently saw a recommendation for

 

Vermont American's Leather/Rubber cutting jigsaw blade #30022 (try eBay)

 

which apparently uses a sharp knife-like blade vs. a jagged saw blade.

 

 

FYI - Having spent several hours looking into it recently, there are a lot of varied opinions about what makes the best roadbed / sub-roadbed material, and I'd suggest you do searches and read some of the material on model railroad forums.  There are also varying opinions on sealing the baseboard, although with your screw-reinforced (did you glue also?) cross-bracing every foot, expansion may be less of an issue.  I found some guys arguing that the screws transmit vibration, and they removed them after the glue set.  

 

 

Regarding paint, the majority suggest that it is designed to breathe - not seal, at least not in terms of creating a watertight barrier.  That said, it may still be beneficial in your environment, but compare it to other products such as shellac and polyurethane.  No doubt this is one of those areas where everyone is going to think that their preferred method is the best, and it will be difficult to find objective data vs. subjective opinions.

 

 

Some guys report that expansion / contraction is a much greater issue with the rails of the track vs. the layout wooden frame.  Guys using flextrack can allow for this at railjoints, similar to expansion joints on a bridge.  If using sectional track (Kato or Tomix), I'm guessing there is enough give at the joints for this not to be an issue,

 

[cteno4]

Sascha,

 

Great progress!

 

If you want to seal it, exterior house paint works well. It's designed to seal pretty well. Varnishes like verethane,etc work very well to seal things up. You can always varnish the wood then paint it later with interior paint to a color if you want.

 

It is the wood that has a much larger coefficient of expansion with humidity swings than heat expansion that can occur with the rails. So sealing your baseboard up well can cut down on expansion/contraction issues with humidity. Also just warping that can occur with prolonged humidity.

 

Saw horses can do the trick well. Also might look at the ikea legs that have wheels on them for the future.

 

Dust is an issue always. Using a small air circulator/filter in the room really can help keep dust down. You can also cove the layout with a very tin plastic sheet to help keep dust off it if not in use for a while. Vacuum and a micro hose attachment kit can be a big aid in keeping things clean

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Micro-Vacuum-Attachment-Tool-Kit-7-Piece-With-Free-Flexible-Hose-Fits-Most-/331577527400?cmd=ViewItem&hash=item4d338f8c68&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0

 

Put a bit of dollar store nylon hose over your vacuum hose at the adapter to catch any accidental bits you might suck up!

 

You can also make a paper or plastic tube connector and poke some holes in it it lessen the suction at the micro hose end if needed.

 

Some dollar store or ebay soft makup brushes are great to use in conjunction with the vacuum to lightly brush off structure, trains,mets while sucking up the aroused dust with the vacuum.

 

As squid mentioned sunlight can be pretty rough on plastics and paint so curtains are a must. Better to use artificial illumination to light things as little uv that causes most of the damage, led lighting using the long strip lights can allow some interesting lighting. You can get rgb led strips that you can tune the light to what color temp you want!

 

Cheers

 

Jeff

[Sascha]

Hmmm. I think for as of right now I just going to paint the plate until I know exactly how my layout will be.I still have a long way to go.I will follow all the advice y'all gave me. Thanks a bunch :)

[E6系]

Hello Mr Sacha,

 

Very short answer: you need to block the holes in the house and purchase a dehumidifier.  Keep humidity below 60%, 50% is even better.

[Sascha]

Hello Mr Sacha,

 

Very short answer: you need to block the holes in the house and purchase a dehumidifier. Keep humidity below 60%, 50% is even better.

It's not my house, so I'm not spending money on it. [emoji1]

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

[katoftw]

I'm gonna attempt to build my baseborad this coming xmas break.

 

Was looking at some pine and ply to work with and build a 2400 x 1200 (4'x8') layout.

 

42 x 19mm x 2.4M or 64 x 19mm x 2.4M or 89 x 19mm x 2.4M for framework?

 

597 x 1200 x 12mm sheets of ply.  12mm too thick/heavy?  Framework will be spaced as 300 x 300mm.

[cteno4]

Kato,

 

12mm is a good weight for a 4x8. I would go with the 89mm stock for the frame for a full 4x8 table.

 

Have fun!

 

Jeff