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HO Kato kiha 40 lighting problem ( solved )


Kiha_120

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I bought my first Japanese outline model on eBay, which was a 2 car kiha 40 set, unfortunately, the 'dummy' unit lights were not working. After some months, I decided it was time to try and rectify this fault ( I hate lights which don't light ! ) After removing the rather flimsy body shell from the chassis, I thought I'd go for the easiest option first - I checked the voltage at the wheel pickups. No problem there, so now to the copper strips under the weights - which incidentally, were loose and slopping around every time the unit was picked up and moved.

I checked them and glued in place as loose weights are not ideal The copper strips under each weight were fine, plus a good voltage from them, so I now checked the other lighting contact strips - these two actually touch the printed circuit board and the two pick up strips.

Still no joy after checking with the meter again, so this time the light unit itself had to come out as I believed the fault must lie there - this unit as you can see from the photos is under the driver/motormans cab.   On close inspection I saw this tiny copper link ( see photo of it ) which bridged two parts of the circuit, but it was so loose, it could spin around.

That can't be right, I thought, so because the lights wouldn't work, I decided to take this link out and replace with a tiny piece of copper wire soldered in place.

Body shell back on AGAIN ( 4th try !! ) Hey presto ! We have LIGHTS !

This procedure was fiddly from the start, not least because the two copper contact strips ( photo ) kept falling off the chassis, either one or both - very, very irritating ! I didn't want to glue these in place however, just in case I ever have to get inside this unit again.

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Interesting post, but a minor quibble - your model is a Kiha58. One of mine has dodgy lights like you described so I'll have a look inside tomorrow and see what's happening. Having photos and a description really helps - thanks! :)

 

All the best,

 

Mark.

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I'm not sure, but wasn't that small piece of metal the head- and taillight disabling switch? A similar one can be found on the underside of N scale models and is used to turn off the lights between coupled cars.

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I'm not sure, but wasn't that small piece of metal the head- and taillight disabling switch? A similar one can be found on the underside of N scale models and is used to turn off the lights between coupled cars.

Not sure what that link is for, but it obviously designed like that for a purpose. But as long as the lights now work I don't mind about hot linking the circuit board.

I am new to Kato models, and Japanese ones at that - British outline stuff is so completely different.

Thanks for your input.

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Interesting post, but a minor quibble - your model is a Kiha58. One of mine has dodgy lights like you described so I'll have a look inside tomorrow and see what's happening. Having photos and a description really helps - thanks! :)

 

All the best,

 

Mark.

Thanks for the heads up re the models prototype series number Mark.   I thought it was a 40 - I really must start reading the instructions enclosed with these models !

Just as an aside, I find the flickering lighting really annoying, so I may give it a complete overhaul by introducing capacitor and battery powering to keep the lights stable and on.

I did this with some British outline passenger coaches, and it works very well.

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Better not commit any crimes kiha, your prints are now public!

 

Glad it's working!

 

Jeff

Thanks for your humorous reply Jeff !  You make a good point about the 'prints' - I shoulda worn gloves  ( and taken a leaf from Japanese train drivers/motormen with their white gloves ! ) :)

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Hello,

 

Drama ... suspense ... intrigue ...

 

This story has the makings of a mini series !!!

 

I especially loved the scene with the spinning part ... great twist (pardon the pun) ...

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Hello,

 

Drama ... suspense ... intrigue ...

 

This story has the makings of a mini series !!!

 

I especially loved the scene with the spinning part ... great twist (pardon the pun) ...

To be continued ! ( que dramatic theme music ).................

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Thanks for the heads up re the models prototype series number Mark.   I thought it was a 40 - I really must start reading the instructions enclosed with these models !

 

No worries! Apart from the different paint schemes, the main spotting difference between the 40s and 58 series is the cabs. The 58s are single-ended, the 40s have a cab at either end and can run as single cars.

 

Cheers,

 

Mark.

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